textbased: A utility pole with messy wires just before dawn. (Default)
Went through and fixed all the twisted knit columns and I hate them, just a little. Moved two of them near on either side  stitch closer to the center, while binding off for the arm holes so that they wouldn't be lost to the seam. Found another knot in the 2nd ball of yarn, putting me at 3 knots/2 skeins so far. Changed to the third ball of yarn at row 131 (54 + 56 + 21).

Pretty sure I started binding off for collar at row 156 (21 + 8 + 48 * 2 + 39 - 8) and finished binding off in really bad pain.

Only after I finished knitting the back did I realize that I messed up a bunch of the cable crosses at the beginning and had to go back to fix those. One was so early on that I put in some lifelines and cut into the knitting to unpick two stitches and then crochet them back up and kitchener stitch them back together.

I've worked most of the way through the front of the sweater now and it's at least neater. I've been doing ptbls instead of waiting until the end to do all the back loop knit columns.

Had a short interlude where I tried to figure out if I wanted to alter the 3 needle bind off that's coming up, but other than knitting one more row on the back so that it's even, probably not. I'll get to block it soon and am going to have to text someone about their blocking mats for that. Looking forward to fixing a ton of stretched out stitches.
textbased: A utility pole with messy wires just before dawn. (Default)
Person wearing a face mask and black glasses wearing a large feather wing shawl that's dark blue with light blue piping. Same photo of the shawl but from the side, and makes the three layers seem more distinct.

Pattern:
Feather Wings Shawl by Megan Lapp (published in Crafty Intentions)

Yarn: 100% Cotton, 140m/100g. 13.5 skeins Dark Blue (main) and 3.5 skeins Aqua (accent)

Tools: 6.5 mm (starting chain), 6.0 mm (feathers), 5.5 mm (pockets) hooks
The pattern says to make this with a 5.0 mm hook, but I used a larger one because I was working with pure cotton (no elastic or stretch) and needed everything to be looser so that it wouldn't curl.

Started: Dec 4, 2021
Finished: Feb 5, 2022
Finished all components on Jan 13, sewed together on Jan 15, finished placing and sewing in the pockets on Feb 5.

Additional Pockets:
Added two pockets by:
  1. ch 20
  2. sc 21 rows
  3. sl st 1 row
  4. should be about/block to 5.5 by 7 inches
  5. sew to shawl about 8 inches from the tip of the first feather and .5 inches from from the edge.

Other Notes:

The name of the yarn kind of sucks and this ends up needing 1.7kg of it. There's a lot of counting along the edge of each feather and I wish it'd been designed with a lighter weight yarn in mind. In general, the stitches are pretty simple sc and hdc, with the exception of all the funky decreases at the base of each feather.

Summary: I love this, I am never taking this off.
textbased: A utility pole with messy wires just before dawn. (Default)
Pattern: Byzantine Bazic by Kathy Zimmerman (published in Interweave)
This was one of the two sweater patterns I bought when I first was thinking about how badly I wanted a cable knit turtleneck, two years ago. I made the Oxford Street Pullover last year, and wanted to make use of a pattern I spent money on. Also, I love cables and moss stitch.

Size: 37"/94 cm bust

Yarn: 100% NZ Wool, 134 m/100 g instead of 100% superwash wool, 59 m/50 g (.16 m/g longer than suggested)
I had some trouble finding yarn in the right weight for this. The listed yarn is categorized as aran, but matching up the grams/meters ratio put it in the range of bulky yarn. I found some wool yarn that's really soft and much cheaper than expected and a wine color that's close to tyrian purple () which appeals to me given the name of this pattern. Unfortunately, I've found two knots in this first ball of yarn, but we'll see how the rest of them shake out.

Tools: 4.5 and 5.5 mm circular needles, 6.0 mm circular needles for neck, 5.0 mm hook
It tells me to swatch in the rib & cable pattern and that 23 stitches/rows of this pattern is 4". But since the pattern doesn't repeat neatly in that span of stitches it's a little frustrating to count. I measured and got 22 stitches and if it's a little smaller because of how I'm doing twisted knit stitches, that's fine. Didn't wash or block it. Whatever.

Started: Jan 14, 2022



I think the pattern looks kind of weird around the hems because of the lack of ribbing, so I tested out some methods and ended up just adding single stitch columns of ribbing anywhere there was 3+ purls in a row, so there was more sections of 1x1 ribbing. Worked rows 1-10 with the smaller needles and switched to larger needles for row 11, while also converting the knit columns back into purls in accordance with the pattern.

Had some real issues with PTBLs and those stitches being so much larger than my KTBLs. Solving that by not doing any PTBL and just going to drop those stitches later and pick them back up with a crochet hook and do the twisted rib that way. I really don't like how the alternating rib looks. I might have been pulling the stitch when doing the PTBLs, chances are that it would even out when I block it but I don't mind doing it with a crochet hook. For the front of the sweater, I'm tempted to knit reverse stockinette and drop and pull up the ribbing with a crochet hook, but I feel like that'd pull the fabric in too much.

I think I'm pulling these knits too tight on the RS rows in specifically the seed stitch areas, but this is the least noticeable area to be uneven and it's fine.

I'm doing spit splices (well, with water) and it's my first time doing it with yarn this thick and it's going bad. I'm not thinning out the yarn enough before I felt it and it's a bit more noticeable than i would like. But I've also been lucky and the places where the yarn connects is in areas where I'm doing moss stitch which is the least noticeable section for it to be.

Reading the pattern came with its own set of problems because it's was so complicated that by the time I got to one end of the pattern I'd lose my place of what row I was on. I had to zoom in about 2x in order to clearly see what I was doing. I stitched together a bunch of screenshots in an art program, and added a semi-transparent layer that would highlight the row I was on, and just moved that bright green rectangle as I worked. Also decreased the brightness of the image for less eye strain.

Added 2nd ball of yarn on row 59 (21 + 38).
textbased: A utility pole with messy wires just before dawn. (Default)
What does selvedge even mean? Selvedge is a corruption of "self" and "edge", that refers to an edge finished in a way that won't unravel in a piece of fabric.[1] For knitting, this mostly just means edge stitches. 

I have struggled with this a lot. Here are the tips for how to knit better edge stitches:
  1. Slow down and knit carefully.
  2. Don't stretch out the stitches, and make the stitch in the previous row too lose.
  3. Keep the tension consistent, don't knit the current stitch too tight either.
This article goes into some more specifics and bad habits to break with photos.

There are other "methods" for how to knit edge stitches, that tend to break into three categories.

1. Edge Stitches for Stockinette
This is the advice to knit a border that alternates knit and purl stitches around a piece of stockinette so that the work will lay flat. Most common version I've seen of this is the garter border, that is alternating rows of knit and purl.

2. Decorative Edge Stitches
There's a bunch of different varieties for this one, but the general method of these is that they achieve a neat look by slipping the first stitch of the row and working the last stitch of the row so that the stitches on either edge are stretched and are all worked in the same direction. It looks nice and avoids problems with stitches getting stretched/pulled tight.

However, if you are seaming this edge, you will end up with larger holes where it connects because of the larger/stretched stitches and a weaker seam, so this is not recommended.

3. Edge Stitches for Seaming
This is essentially just keeping track of the fact that one stitch on both sides of the seam will disappear when you seam it. A lot of patterns already factor this in when they tell you what to cast on and so forth. If you're constructing a sweater from scratch, the general suggestion I've seen is to knit or purl both sides so that the seam isn't noticeable when you use mattress stitch.

textbased: A utility pole with messy wires just before dawn. (Default)
Bluebird Shawl: I'm procrastinating fixing the pockets. They're both about two inches too low, and it's just annoying enough that I don't want to think about it right now.

Byzantium Sweater: My tension is off on every other row and it's super noticeable around the 1x1 ribbing and cables. And it's so frustrating because I'm used to/better at knitting in the round, so knitting flat is a different monster. Anyways, the plan is to frog and restart. And swatch properly again, just to practice and figure out where I'm going wrong. That this problem persists through the twisted stitch columns is really annoying.

Denser Feathers: Still in the math/planning stage but it's going. The ratios of the sc:hdc on individual feathers is killing me a little but I've mapped out the major portions.

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